House-hunting checklist

Look for missing, curling, or cracked shingles. Check the age — a typical asphalt shingle roof lasts 20–25 years. Ask the seller's agent when it was last replaced. A roof at end of life costs $10,000–$25,000+ to replace. If you can see the roofline from the street, check for sagging or unevenness, which can indicate structural problems. From inside, check the attic ceiling for water stains or dark patches.

Walk the perimeter of the house and look for significant cracks in the foundation. Hairline cracks are common and usually cosmetic. Horizontal cracks, wide diagonal cracks, or cracks with displacement (one side higher than the other) are more concerning. In the basement, check for water stains, white mineral deposits (efflorescence), musty smells, or active dampness. Wet basements are expensive to waterproof and some can't be permanently fixed from the inside alone.

Open and close every window and exterior door. They should open smoothly and seal tightly. Foggy or condensation between double-pane glass means the seal has failed and the window needs replacing ($300–$700 per window). Doors that stick or don't latch properly can indicate settling or foundation movement. Also look at the caulking around window frames — cracked or missing caulk lets in water and cold air and inflates heating bills.

The ground should slope away from the house on all sides. If the yard slopes toward the foundation, water runs toward the house during rain — a common cause of wet basements. Check for low spots near the foundation, downspouts that terminate close to the house (they should extend at least 1.5 metres away), and any areas where water seems to pool. Poor grading is usually fixable but adds to the cost of ownership.

Find the furnace and check the age — it's usually printed on a label inside the unit or on the front panel. A gas furnace typically lasts 15–20 years. If it's approaching or past that age, budget for replacement ($3,000–$8,000 installed). Turn the thermostat up and confirm the heat comes on. Ask about the last service date. Also check whether the home has central air conditioning, when it was installed, and whether it runs. Listen for unusual sounds — banging, grinding, or rattling are not normal.

Find the electrical panel (usually in the basement or utility room) and open it. Look at the breaker size and brand. Older panels with knob-and-tube wiring or aluminum wiring may require full rewiring ($8,000–$15,000+) and are often flagged by home insurers. Panels under 100 amps are generally considered undersized for modern homes. A home inspector will test outlets throughout the house for proper grounding. Check that plugs in bathrooms and kitchens are GFCI-protected (they'll have a test/reset button).

Turn on multiple taps simultaneously and flush a toilet while the sink is running. Watch whether the water pressure drops significantly — this can indicate aged or undersized supply pipes. Look under the kitchen and bathroom sinks for signs of leaks: water stains, swollen cabinet bottoms, or mold. Ask whether the main water supply line is copper, lead (very old homes), galvanized steel (older homes), or polyethylene (newer). Ask about the water heater: age, type (tank or tankless), and whether it's owned or rented.

In the attic, check for proper insulation coverage and that vents aren't blocked. Poor attic ventilation leads to ice dams in winter and moisture problems year-round. In older homes, ask about the insulation type — spray foam applied incorrectly can trap moisture; vermiculite insulation (common pre-1990) may contain asbestos and should be tested before disturbing. Check bathroom exhaust fans: do they actually vent outside, or just into the ceiling cavity? The latter causes moisture buildup and mold.

Look up at every ceiling. Water stains are the most important thing to spot — they indicate a past or present leak from above (roof, plumbing, or from another unit above in a multi-family building). Old stains that have been painted over are easy to miss in photos but visible in person. Look for cracks in plaster or drywall. On floors, walk slowly and feel for soft spots, which can indicate rot or structural damage below. Check that hardwood floors are level — severe sloping often indicates foundation settlement.

These are the two rooms where deferred maintenance costs the most to fix. Run every tap, flush every toilet, test the garbage disposal. Check under sinks for signs of leaks — swollen wood, stains, or mold. In bathrooms, push on the grout around the tub and shower: if it flexes, water has gotten behind the wall. Test the shower pressure. Look for caulk that's cracking or pulling away from the wall. In older homes, check whether the bathroom exhaust fan is functional and vented correctly to outside.

Think practically about your life in this house. Where will you put winter coats, luggage, seasonal items? Is there enough kitchen storage? Where does laundry happen — a dedicated room, a closet, or shared space in the basement? If laundry is in the basement, is there a laundry hookup on the main floor if you want to move it later? Count closets in bedrooms. A beautifully staged house can hide inadequate storage. Think about how the layout works when it's full of your actual stuff, not perfect furniture.

Stand outside for five minutes and listen. Proximity to a major road, highway, or rail line can significantly affect quality of life and resale value. Visit at different times of day if possible — a quiet street at 10am on a Tuesday can be a different experience at 5pm on a Friday. Check if the property is near flight paths. For semi-detached or townhomes, noise from neighbours is a genuine consideration — ask about the party wall construction and whether it's been upgraded for sound insulation.

Walk to the nearest transit stop and time it. Check Google Maps for commute time to work during peak hours — apps underestimate transit commutes when they're under load. If schools matter to your plans (current or future children), look up the specific school catchment boundaries — they don't always follow obvious geographic lines, and boundaries can change. Check whether the area has a walk score you'd be comfortable with for daily errands. A car-dependent location has real costs: parking, fuel, wear, and time.

Walk the street. Look at the neighbouring properties: are they well-maintained? Are there obvious deferred maintenance issues next door that could affect your property's value or your enjoyment of living there? Overgrown trees on a neighbouring property can be a source of ongoing disputes and potential damage. Are there commercial or industrial uses nearby that don't show up in listing photos? Check the city's zoning map and any nearby development applications — a proposed high-rise nearby can change your street significantly.

After you've checked everything else, write down three words that describe your honest reaction to the house. Not what you want to feel — what you actually feel. Some houses don't work and it's hard to articulate why. Some houses feel right despite minor flaws. Your instinct after a careful viewing is useful data. The goal isn't to talk yourself into or out of a house but to give yourself an honest impression to compare later. Rate the house out of 10 before you leave, while it's fresh.